• First pump up the leaky chamber(s) nice and tight.
• Disconnect the chamber from the pump - if it no longer leaks down, then you probably need a new pump, but first try this - Reconnect the chamber to the pump and douse the area around the connection with soapy water (a spray bottle works great) if you see bubbles then replace the o-ring on the pump nipple with one from a hardware store. If you don’t see bubbles you need a new pump for your air bed.
• If the chamber still leaks down when disconnected from the pump, then pump it back up nice and tight and submerge the connector fitting/check valve in a container of water while someone lays on the chamber. If you see bubbles, you’re in luck you only need a new airbed pump fitting.
• If the chamber leaks down when disconnected, but isn’t leaking from the fitting then you need a replacement airbed chamber. If you really want to put this off for as long as possible, or want to make the bed sleepable until the new chamber arrives you can try to find and repair the chamber leak.

If your airbed is comfortable for you, then it makes great sense to repair it instead of replacing it. Good quality new beds are usually at least $1500 and until you actually sleep on it you really don’t know if you will like it or not. Our replacement parts are in stock and ship within one business day 95% of the time - most people receive their order within 3-4 business days of placing it. Chances are that your local bed store will take almost that long to deliver a new bed that may or may not be comfortable.

The thing that you need to understand when shopping for any type of bed is that almost all sleep systems really have only two basic parts - the support layer, and the comfort cushioning layer. It’s easy to spot these layers now because so many beds have “pillow tops”. Pillow tops are the comfort cushioning layer, and the part underneath is the support layer.

In an air bed the air chamber (bladder, balloon, air bag - whatever you want to call it) is the support layer of the bed. It does exactly the same thing that the springs in a coil spring bed do - it supports your body and allows proper alignment of the spine. However, without the comfort cushioing layer between you and the air chamber (or spring unit) your bed would not be at all comfortable, because you would suffer from pressure points. When you sleep on a camping type air mattress that doesn’t have an additional comfort layer, you can achieve some degree of comfort by not fully inflating it. This allows the parts of your body which protrude to sink in so that the pressure on them is not so pronounced, and to some extent also allows your spine to be better aligned than if the air mattress is tight as a drum. Unfortunately the effect is a lot like sleeping on a hammock - unless you’re pretty young or unusually tough and resilient you’re likely to be stiff and sore in the morning because you have compromised support to gain cushioning.

Adding a layer of cushioning on top of the support layer allows us to have the best of both worlds - support and comfort - for a while.

Nothing lasts forever, and the components of any bed start to degrade as soon as you start to use them. Foam eventually goes flat (all foam) from being compressed over and over. Similarly steel springs degrade and get softer, and eventually will even break. One big advantage of an air bed is that by using an air chamber as the support layer the degree of support that it supplies never changes for the life time of the air bed. If air leaks out (and of course it will) you just pump some more in. If a chamber develops a serious leak it can be replaced with a new one - with a coil spring bed, you just can’t do that.

So what about that cushy pillow top? Are pillow tops good or Bad? It depends on what’s inside, and how much of it is in there, and can you get in there to change it out when it gets old? Another advantage of many air beds is that it can all be unzipped so that you can get in there to turn, reconfigure, and replace nearly all of the components.

Remove the Air Chamber from the bed.

• Pump it up nice and tight.
• Now take it outside or into a bathroom.
• Using a spray bottle spray a mixture of water and a little bit of dish washing soap or shampoo all over the bladder.
• Look for bubbles - they might be small, but if you look close any leak will make bubble, and you should be able to find them.
• Mark all leaks with permanent marker. Mark the exact locations.
• Now, rinse the chamber and dry it off. Wait a while if you need to until it is completely dry.
• Let air out of the chamber until it still has it’s shape but is flabby and not under pressure.

Now you are ready to fix the leaks. You will need a large needle, thread, a pair of pliers and rubber cement. You can get the perfect kind of rubber cement / sealer by buying a tire plugging kit from an auto parts store or the auto department of a discount store. You can also buy a similar kit for repairing camping air mattresses. Either of these kits usually costs 3-5 dollars, and comes with a small tube of adhesive that is made for this kind of repair.

If your leak is in a seam, then saturate the area between the extra material around the seam with your glue and then sew the repaired area together with nice tight stitches - only sew in the excess material - don’t puncture the part of the chamber that holds air. Wait as long as possible before pumping up or using the air bed.

If you only have a pin hole type leak:

• Thread your needle with the fattest thread or yarn that you can get through the eye - a needle threading tool is really helpful.
• Saturate the thread with your rubber cement and put a dollop of it right on the pinhole. - Gloves will help to keep this from being too messy.
• Now grasp the needle with the pliers (vise grip type locking pliers are best) by the sharp end, and push the threaded needle eye end first through the leak hole and into the mattress chamber as far as you can - but keep hold of it with the pliers. The mattress must have enough air in it to hold it’s shape for this process.
• Now pull the needle back out just far enough to cut off the thread - leaving a quarter inch or so of it sticking out.
• This will leave four plies of adhesive saturated thread passing through the pin hole.
• Wait as long as possible before pumping up or using the air bed.

If your leak is a puncture through an open expanse of the air bed or mattress chamber then use an air mattress patch kit, and follow the directions that come with it. You can get one of these kits from camping / sporting goods stores or sporting goods departments of discount stores.

If despite your best efforts you are unable (or unwilling) to fix your leak you can get a replacement air bed chamber and other Air Bed Parts for a reasonable price by clicking this link.

I hate sales. They always strike me as nothing more than a gimmick to make you think that you have to buy something right now just because the price is reduced. And If they can sell this stuff so cheap now then why not all the time?

The thing is we actually are over stocked with California King (Cal King or Western King to some people) size replacement air bed chambers. A previous stock manager ordered a bunch of this size from our wholesaler, and it turns out that at the rate they’re moving they’re going to be taking up too much shelf space for too long. So this really is an inventory reduction sale - once we get down to our target inventory level the price is going back up (up to our usual low price that is

These Cal King replacement air bed mattress chambers (aka bladders) are made of high quality canvas / vulcanized rubber and have a factory attached check valve / pump fitting for a long leak free life. They measure 31.5″ x 75″ x 5.5″ and are perfect replacements for many brands including Eclipse, Infinity, Equinox, Strata, Sarasota, Halcyon, Adjust a rest, Deco, Intex, Insta-bed, Majestic, Renaissance, Siesta, and many other airbed systems. If your leaky cal king bed uses a chamber of this size and the pump fitting looks kinda like this:

click here if you Just need a fitting for your air bed.

Then this chamber will work for you. If you measure your chamber and the size seems to be a little bit different, then this chamber will still probably work fine (its hard to get a good measurement anyway because of the rounded corners) but a set of two chambers is sure to get your bed back to like new condition, and we are offering an even deeper discount on dual sets.

Needless to say they are in stock and ready to ship - most orders ship on the same day that they are placed, and the rest ship no later than the following business day. Ordering on line is very easy and safe, and our site is secured by Mcaffee Hacker Safe daily security audits for your (and our) protection. By the way, all of our prices include free shipping so there will be no unpleasant surprises at checkout - the price you see is the price you pay.

Here’s that link again - Replacement Air bed Chambers

If your leak is in the actual chamber you can find out how to fix it by reading How to Repair Air Bed or Air Mattress Leaks

Our air bed pump fittings are direct replacements for most Halcyon, Strata, Infinity, Sarasota, Adjust-a-rest, or any other airbeds that used an Equinox / Infinity Air Inflator Pump or a Renaissance Air Inflation System. If you aren’t quite sure just look at your fitting and compare it to this picture: Click on the image for a larger view. If you are saying to yourself “I think that looks like the one I have…” then it IS the same as the one that you have. In my experience if the fitting on your air bed is different it will be so completely different that there will be no doubt in your mind. If your air bed has a permanently attached hose that is leaking, it’s still possible to repair it. Before you even think about replacing the fitting though try coating the O-ring on the air inflator with a small amount of petroleum jelly. It’s possible that this will be all that you need to do to get a complete seal. You can also replace the o ring quite easily. Gently pry is out of it’s slot with a small screwdriver or similar tool (be careful not to cut it with your tool though) and take it with you to a hardware store or home improvement center to match it up with a replacement. Be aware that a new one may look a bit different than an old o ring that is compressed or dried out. This should cost less than a dollar. Also check the hose itself for signs of cracks or dry rotting of the rubber. This most commonly occurs at the point where the gray plastic fitting is attached to the end of the hose. To determine exactly where your air bed is leaking from make a mixture of liquid dish soap and water, and spray it on the most likely places - after you’ve aired it up nice and firm and detached it from the air inflater - and you will see soap bubbles where ever air is escaping. If you don’t see bubbles, the leak may be in the mattress itself. If you do see bubbles at or near the pump fitting, you will need to replace it.

What you Need:

1. Utility knife or other tool sharp enough to cut through wire-reinforced rubber hose
2. Petroleum jelly
3. A hose clamp or cable (zip) tie

How to do it:

1. Cut off the damaged end of the hose and reattach the gray fitting to the good part of the hose. Use a sharp knife to make a clean cut through the hose. If you have to cut off so much of the hose to get to sound material that it is too short, you can extend it with a new length of hose and a coupling that you can easily procure from any hardware or home improvement store. I suggest taking a bit of the old hose with you when you shop.
2. Now you need to clean off the old fitting and prepare it to be reattached to the hose. Make sure you remove any glue or pieces of the rubber hose. If you’re old fitting is not usable, you can purchase a set of two new air connector fittings. Coat the end of the fitting with a small amount of petroleum jelly to help ensure a good seal and make it easier to slide the hose on.
3. Slide the hose back onto the fitting. It should be a snug fit, and it helps to twist the fitting around a couple times to get it seated.
4. Put your hose clamp or zip tie around the hose, near the base of the fitting. Tighten just enough to secure the hose to the fitting - don’t over tighten - you can always tighten it a bit more if it leaks.
5. Air it up and check for leaks.
6. That should be it! If your air bed continues to lose air, check the hose and mattress again. Otherwise it might be time to purchase a replacement air bed chamber.

Other Replacement Airbed Parts:

• Replacement Air bed Inflator Pump - replacement for all Equinox, Infinity, and Renaissance air inflation systems
• Eclipse Replacement Air Mattress air bladder (chamber) - direct replacement for Equinox, Infinity, Halcyon, Strata and many other air chambers
• Airbed hose pump fitting - connects an air bed mattress to air inflator (Set of 2)

Good luck, and please feel free to call us at 1-877-684-8295 if you have any questions!

I recently had a question from a customer who purchased an air bed a couple of years ago. Apparently a “Friend” had slept over recently and they noticed that the center of the dual chamber bed developed something of a low spot that they tended to fall into if they didn’t keep to one side or the other. This person said that they were happy with the bed, but just wondered if this was a defect or just the way air beds are. The answer of course is that this is just how dual chamber air beds are. Even if both sides are aired up alike there is always this spot in the middle that you feel like you could fall into if you aren’t careful. If both sides are not aired up alike (as is often the case) then this transition area is going to be even more noticeable. Different design schemes are used in attempts to minimize the no mans land between dual air chambers, but in my experience nothing really works. Of course single chamber beds (available in Queen and smaller sizes) don’t have this issue, but they also don’t have the feature of individual adjust ability either.

So, if you and your “Sleep Partner” are thinking about buying an air bed be aware that if you like to meet in the middle that might not work out so well with a dual chamber bed. But don’t worry about it too much, where there’s a will there’s a way.

“Body Impressions are normal” - this statement or one very like it is commonly found in most mattress guarantee documents, and it is completely true that body impressions are normal. Most bed manufacturers will consider a body impression to be a warrant able defect at some point - usually ranging from one inch in depth to two inches in depth. Here’s the catch though - as a general rule the bed will usually be very uncomfortable long before the body impression reaches the point that it’s covered by the manufacturer’s guaranty. Body impressions are one of the normal indications that the mattress is wearing out.

Your mattress set may come with a 20 year warranty, but in many cases it will become unusable long before that because of unwarrantable body impressions. You may think that this is dishonest of the manufacturer, and in some cases it certainly is. If you read and understand your mattress guarantee what you will find is that most of them really only guarantee that the bed will be free of manufacturing defects during the warranty period, not that it won’t wear out. Consumers of course want to believe that a 20 year warranty means that the mattress will last 20 years under normal use, but that is usually not going to happen.

Nothing lasts forever. Everyone knows this, but people allow themselves to be fooled by extravagant warranty claims because they want to believe that the mattress they’re paying hundreds of dollars for will last for an entire generation. The truth is you usually get what you pay for - if you buy a 3-400 dollar mattress set from a discount store it probably isn’t going to last very long. Good beds are usually expensive. And even expensive beds don’t last forever.

So why don’t the manufacturers just come out and tell the truth, instead of playing word games, and making meaningless promises?

• Consumers don’t really read the guarantee - all they want to know is that it says 15-20 years.
• It’s a competitive business - the competition will eat you for breakfast if you don’t play the game.
• The real life span of the product is variable and could actually be very long depending on the users weight and use patterns.

If you have realistic expectations and use your head when you shop you will probably get a fair value out of your mattress purchase.